To the south-west of Épernay, at the boundary of the Marne and Aube departments, the Côte de Sézanne is one of the zones most coveted by the great Champagne houses for its suave, generous Chardonnays. It is here, in the village of Bethon, that the Le Brun family has been rooted for more than 150 years, and where the La Crayère cooperative, founded in 1963, produces its Champagnes under the Le Brun de Neuville label. A terroir little known to the general public, but very well known to connoisseurs. 

History / Heritage 

The Le Brun family has been linked for generations to the vines of the Côte de Sézanne, notably through the Château de Bethon. In 1963, around twenty passionate winegrowers, led by André Vandier and Madame de Reviers (heiress of the château), created the La Crayère cooperative with the ambition of showcasing the Chardonnays of this still under-exploited zone. Under the leadership of its president Damien Champy, who arrived in 2008, the house embarked on a determined quality upgrade, with Champagnes structured around parcel precision and long ageing on lees. The house now produces around 300,000 bottles per year from 150 to 160 hectares spread across 12 villages. 

The Terroir 

The Côte de Sézanne is the geological continuation of the Côte des Blancs, with which it shares the same chalk bedrock covered by a few centimetres of clay-chalk soil. These highly porous soils provide a natural water reservoir for the vines, even during the driest summers. But the Sézanne area has a particular characteristic: its more southerly and sheltered location gives its Chardonnays a more advanced ripeness, a broader fruit profile, and a chalkier, creamier texture than those further north. The vines, on average more than 40 years old, benefit from a full south-to-south-east exposure that maximises photosynthesis and ripening. The entire area is classified as Champagne AOC, with no premier or grand cru villages within the appellation. 

Viticulture and Winemaking 

Viticulture is conducted sustainably throughout the cycle. In the cellar, the philosophy of Le Brun de Neuville values aromatic precision and long ageing: the cuvées rest for a minimum of 4 years in the cellar before disgorgement (versus the regulatory 18 months), and some considerably longer. For the top cuvées, partial barrel fermentation and ageing on lees deepen the texture. The assemblage is primarily centred on Chardonnay (90% of the vineyard), complemented by Pinot Noir for the Blancs et Noirs cuvées. 

Wines / Key Cuvées 

The Côte Blanche Blanc de Blancs is the house's emblematic cuvée: 100% Chardonnay from the Côte de Sézanne, a minimum of 4 years on lees, with 25% reserve wines. The result is a radiant, broad Champagne with notes of warm brioche, ripe white fruit, and honey, with a fine and predictable bubble. The Chemin Empreinte, their single-terroir Extra-Brut cuvée, is a selection of the finest Côte de Sézanne parcels with partial barrel fermentation: a wine of texture, spiced, with a rare mouthwatering depth. The 2009 Millésime cuvée, aged 14 years on lees before disgorgement, is a collector's Champagne of remarkable complexity and length. 

Le Brun de Neuville proves that the Côte de Sézanne, so often left in the shadow of the Côte des Blancs, can produce Champagnes of the highest class, and that well-managed cooperatives are among the finest producers in the region. 

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