Criolla

Criolla represents much more than a simple grape variety – it is a living chapter of New World wine history. These traveling grapes, brought in the holds of Spanish ships in the 16th century, shaped the viticultural landscape of the Americas before experiencing an astonishing revival. Today, a new generation of winemakers is rediscovering the exceptional potential of these historic grapes.

At Vinodelice, we are fascinated by these grape varieties that tell a story – that of the meeting between European winemaking traditions and the vibrant terroirs of Latin America. Let’s explore this unique gustatory heritage.

Origins

The history of the Criolla grape varieties begins in the 16th century when Spanish conquistadors introduced Listán Prieto, also known as Mission, to the American continent. This hardy grape quickly became one of the key instruments of viticultural colonization in the Americas. Planted by Jesuit missions along the famous “Wine Route,” it accompanied religious and agricultural expansion from Mexico to Argentina. Adapted to the varied climatic conditions of the New World, the original grape slowly evolved, giving rise to a large family of local varieties called Criollas.

Among them are Criolla Grande and Cereza in Argentina, País in Chile, and Negra Criolla in Peru. For several centuries, these grapes were pillars of local consumption, supplying wine to rural and urban communities. They long embodied a local, popular, and rustic viticulture before being marginalized with the arrival of more prestigious international grape varieties in the 20th century. Today, their rediscovery by a new generation of winemakers marks an important turning point: a rehabilitation of Latin American viticultural memory.

The Great Expressions of Criolla Around the World and Their Characteristics

In Argentina, especially in the provinces of Mendoza and San Juan, Criolla Grande and Cereza are experiencing a spectacular revival. Long relegated to mass production destined for table wines, these varieties are now vinified with care, revealing an unsuspected aromatic palette. Some producers now offer brilliant rosés, marked by delicate aromas of wild strawberry and pink grapefruit. Others choose carbonic maceration vinifications, creating light, fruity, and very expressive red wines that evoke the crispness of fresh fruit. There are also oak barrel-aged cuvées, developing subtle aromas of vanilla, cinnamon, or mild pepper, adding complexity to these historically simple wines.

In Chile, the País grape, a local version of Listán Prieto, holds a special place in traditional wine regions, notably in the Maule and Itata valleys. It produces rustic red wines, expressing authentic notes of black cherry, raspberry, and sometimes black pepper, depending on the terroir and aging method. Some País wines are made to be drunk young, with great freshness, while others, after barrel aging, gain texture and complexity. These wines faithfully reflect the dry, rocky soils of the Chilean central valley, while offering an accessible alternative for lovers of light and expressive wines.

A Common Signature Across Terroirs

Despite geographic and stylistic differences, Criolla grapes share several fundamental characteristics that make them identifiable. They often produce wines with a clear, translucent, almost diaphanous color, reminiscent of certain pinots or gamays. The nose is generally intense, dominated by aromas of small red fruits like strawberry, currant, or cherry. On the palate, these wines stand out for their controlled lightness, without excess alcohol or tannic structure, but with surprising aromatic persistence. Their natural freshness, inherited from an ancient and well-adapted planting, makes them wines perfectly aligned with current trends oriented toward easy-drinking and low-intervention styles.

Price of Criolla

One of the main appeals of wines made from Criolla grapes lies in their economic accessibility. Historically regarded as secondary varieties, they are still offered today at very competitive prices—even for quality cuvées. Entry-level wines, often from large cooperatives or family-run estates, are generally priced between €6 and €10. These wines, simple yet well made, represent an ideal gateway to discovering the potential of these historic varieties.

For those who enjoy more artisanal winemaking, the mid-range—ranging from €12 to €25—offers access to carefully crafted cuvées, sometimes without added sulfites, using native yeasts and gentle aging methods that highlight the purity of the fruit. Finally, a few high-end cuvées—sometimes vinified in amphorae, with extended maceration or barrel aging—can exceed €30, offering sophisticated and profound expressions of these long-overlooked grapes.

These wines provide a refreshing alternative to more famous grapes such as Malbec, Cabernet, or Syrah, while showcasing the richness of South American terroirs and the creativity of new winemakers seeking to reconnect with their region’s viticultural heritage.

Food Pairings with Criolla

Wines made from Criolla grapes naturally pair with traditional South American cuisine, thanks to their freshness, low tannic structure, and fruity expression. They go very well with grilled meats, especially beef or pork, particularly when prepared on the barbecue, where their liveliness perfectly balances smoky and grilled flavors. They also pair excellently with empanadas, whether filled with meat, cheese, or vegetables, bringing a beautiful harmony between richness and lightness.

These wines also find their place alongside Mexican dishes such as tacos or enchiladas, even when slightly spicy, softening flavors without masking them. The freshest and most floral versions, like Criolla Blanca or certain rosés, are very comfortable with ceviche, playing with citrus notes and the iodine texture of raw fish. For cheese lovers, it is best to pair them with mild or semi-hard cheeses such as young gouda or queso fresco, which respect the wine’s delicate aromas.

It is recommended to serve Criolla rosés and whites between 8 and 10°C to preserve their freshness and brightness. Reds benefit from being slightly chilled, around 14 to 16°C, which enhances their crisp and fruity character. Finally, these wines are best enjoyed young, generally between one and three years after bottling, although some more elaborate cuvées reveal beautiful complexity after a few additional years.

For more information, you can consult our list of grape varieties!