Wairarapa, whose Māori name means "glistening waters", is a compact, confidential region nestled in the south of the North Island, an hour's drive from Wellington. Identified in the late 1970s as climatically close to Burgundy, its free draining gravel terraces and cool, dry climate gave rise to some of the most sought after Pinot Noirs in New Zealand. Its three subregions, Martinborough, Gladstone and Masterton, share a common base while offering nuances of character that a trained palate will pick out. Martinborough wines lean towards elegance and finesse, with notes of red cherry, strawberry, dried herbs and forest floor that develop towards leather and woodland complexity with age. A region that produces little, but produces well, firmly focused on quality over volume.