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Bodega Noemía
One thousand kilometres south of Buenos Aires, in the middle of the Patagonian desert, an old abandoned vineyard changed the life of an Italian countess. This is where Bodega Noemía produces what many consider to be the most elegant Malbecs in Argentina, wines of an unusual freshness and purity for the country's flagship grape variety, born from pre-phylloxera vines planted in the 1930s on the floor of the Río Negro Valley.
History / Heritage
In 2001, Countess Noemi Marone Cinzano, former owner of the Tuscan estate Argiano, and Danish winemaker Hans Vinding-Diers fell in love with a 1.5-hectare plot of nearly abandoned Malbec in an isolated corner of Río Negro. They first bought the grapes, destemmed them by hand each evening in an old packing shed, and trod them by foot in fibreglass vats. In 2003, they acquired the vineyard. Critical success was immediate. In 2018, Hans Vinding-Diers, now sole at the helm following the Countess's departure, was named "Winemaker of the Year" by critic Tim Atkin.
The Terroir
The Río Negro Valley, at 240 metres of altitude on the northern bank of the river, enjoys an exceptional microclimate: large diurnal temperature variation, constant wind that prevents disease, and low humidity. The soils are a mixture of sand, pebbles, and calcareous deposits, permeable and low in fertility, ideal for old low-yielding vines. These ungrafted pre-phylloxera vines, planted in 1932 on their own roots, are irrigated four times a year by submersion through a canal network dug in the 19th century by Italian engineers. The pre-phylloxera vines naturally produce few grapes, but of a remarkable concentration and complexity.
Viticulture and Winemaking
All of Noemía's vineyards are certified organic (Ecocert) and biodynamic, a deep conviction, not a commercial posture. Harvests are manual and yields are very low. In the cellar, the philosophy is one of minimal intervention: fermentation in small containers, ageing in used French oak barrels, no filtration. The aim is to allow the singularity of the Patagonian terroir to show through, rather than "sculpting" the wine.
Wines / Key Cuvées
The Noemía cuvée, the signature wine, is produced from the 1.5-hectare plot of Malbec planted in 1932. Dark, concentrated, and unexpectedly refined, it marries notes of plum, graphite, and dried flowers with a fresh acidity that recalls the altitude and the wind. J. Alberto, from a 4-hectare vineyard planted in 1955, is a wine of character with more structure and riper tannins. A Lisa, the entry-level cuvée, is a blend of Malbec (90%) and Merlot (10%) from vines in the Mainqué area, accessible, fruity, and already very representative of the Patagonian character.
Bodega Noemía remains one of the most romantic wine projects in the world: born from a discovery in the desert, built by hand, and having become a global reference within just a few vintages.
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