Melon de Bourgogne
Muscadet is technically called “melon of Bourgogne,” due to its Bourgogne origins and its melon-shaped leaves. This grape is a bit of a loner and does not assemble itself with other varieties. Alone at the helm, it blows its sea wind straight into our nostrils. Muscadet is complex - full-bodied, restless on the tongue, it tickles the senses with hints of salt. Think of that last drop of seawater after you’ve gulped down an oyster. Its acidic fruit (mandarin or green apple) and citrus aromas blend perfectly with seafood and shellfish. Ahoy Matey, it is time to drink some Muscadet!
Melon de Bourgogne
Melon de Bourgogne, also known as "Melon B," is a white grape variety originating from Burgundy. More commonly known as the Muscadet grape, this dry white wine is emblematic of the Nantes vineyard, where it thrives on diverse terroirs. Its history, unique characteristics, and recent evolution highlight the importance of this grape in the French wine landscape.
The History of Melon de Bourgogne
Melon de Bourgogne traces its roots to the Noiriens family, resulting from a cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. This grape initially flourished in Burgundy before migrating to the west of France. Its establishment in the Nantes region is largely due to its great resistance to harsh climatic conditions. Specifically, the harsh winter of 1709, which devastated much of the European vineyards, revealed the robustness of Melon de Bourgogne.
This resilience prompted Nantes vintners to adopt this grape, especially since Dutch merchants showed a keen interest in this light, refreshing white wine, suitable to their taste and commercial needs. Thus, Melon de Bourgogne found a new home in the Nantes region, where it became the dominant grape variety.
Focus on the Appellation
The wine produced from Melon de Bourgogne is classified into three main sub-appellations: Coteaux de la Loire, Sèvre-et-Maine, and Côte-de-Grandlieu. These appellations highlight the diversity of the Nantes vineyard, each contributing unique characteristics to the wine.
Coteaux de la Loire, for instance, is often noted for its minerality and freshness, while Sèvre-et-Maine, cultivated on schist, granite, and gneiss soils, offers aromatic complexity and a more pronounced structure. Côte-de-Grandlieu, on the other hand, is distinguished by its roundness and fruity aromas.
One of the most famous food and wine pairings is between this white wine and oysters. The wine’s salinity and freshness complement the briny flavors of the oysters, creating an unparalleled gustatory harmony. It also pairs very well with other seafood, certain fish, and even some cheeses, making it a versatile wine in gastronomy.
The Wine’s Revival
For a long time, this white wine suffered from a "simple wine" image, often perceived as straightforward and unpretentious. However, like Bourgogne Aligoté, it is currently experiencing a revival thanks to passionate and talented winemakers who are uncovering the richness of its terroirs. These vintners emphasize the specific characteristics of schist, granite, and gneiss soils, producing high-quality wines that authentically reflect their environment.
This renaissance is marked by a heightened focus on sustainable viticulture and careful winemaking. Techniques such as aging on lees, where the wine rests on its dead yeast cells for several months, help develop complex aromas and a silky texture. This process imparts a depth and elegance often underappreciated.
Today, the wine is rediscovered by enthusiasts who appreciate its ability to express the uniqueness of its terroir while offering a fresh and invigorating tasting experience. By revaluing this historic grape, Nantes winemakers are restoring the wine’s reputation, proving that it can compete with the finest wines of France.
Melon de Bourgogne, through this appellation, perfectly illustrates how a grape variety can adapt and thrive in a specific terroir while offering a richness and diversity of flavors that delight the most discerning palates.
For more information, check out our list of grape varieties!