Woody Wine: Anything But a Plank Taste!

For a long time, "woody taste" was synonymous with chic wine. Today, it divides: some love it, others are wary. But between clichés and excesses, there's a world to discover. Because wood, when well used, can elevate a wine, give it body, structure, and an extra soul.

What is a Woody Wine?

A woody wine is a wine that has been aged in oak barrels – that is, stored for several months (sometimes years) in wooden containers, usually French or American oak. This time in barrels will bring:

· aromas: vanilla, coconut, spices, hazelnut, coffee, tobacco...

· texture: the tannins from the wood blend with the wine's tannins

· enhanced aging capacity.

But it all depends on how the wood is used.

New Barrel or Used Barrel? A World of Nuances

A new barrel releases many aromatic compounds and strongly marks the wine. This is the choice of many Bordeaux grand crus, or some Chardonnays from Burgundy or California, which seek complexity, richness, and toasted notes.

Conversely, a barrel that has already been used (called a "second, third, or fourth wine barrel") will have a more discreet impact: it allows beneficial micro-oxygenation for the wine's evolution, without dominating it with wood aromas. This is often the choice of winemakers who prioritize elegance and fruit precision.

French Oak vs. American Oak: Aromatic Duel

French oak, finer and tighter-grained, brings elegant notes of vanilla, sweet spices, toast, or hazelnut. American oak, meanwhile, is more porous and generous: it diffuses its aromas more quickly (coconut, caramel, dill...) and gives a more opulent style. Great Spanish Riojas, for example, are fond of it.

Barrique, Foudre, Egg: Containers That Change Everything

The Bordeaux barrique (225L) or the Burgundian pièce (228L) are the most classic. Their small size favors contact between the wine and wood. Conversely, foudres (large containers of several thousand liters) have a much more discreet woody impact, while allowing for slow and harmonious aging. Some winemakers also use alternative containers like concrete eggs or amphorae, to gain texture without wood... but that's another story.

Barrel Aging: A Question of Time... and Style

The longer a wine stays in barrel, the more it gains in complexity – but also in structure. In some regions, regulated mentions frame this duration:

In Spain, notably in Rioja or Ribera del Duero, a Reserva wine has aged at least 12 months in barrel; a Gran Reserva, at least 18 months (often more).

In Italy, we find the mentions Riserva (or Superiore depending on the appellations), which often indicate an extended period in barrels. This is the case for many Chianti Classico or Brunello di Montalcino.

What If the Wine Smells... Like Wood, Literally?

Among the aromas that barrel aging can bring, we often think of indulgent notes (vanilla, caramel, coconut...). But some wines also express woody notes in the literal sense, like cedar, sandalwood, or slightly smoked noble wood. These nuances evoke more an old library than a vanilla dessert, and contribute to the wine's complexity. They are often found in evolved red wines (Bordeaux, Rioja, Cabernet Sauvignon), where the wood has blended with the wine to create an elegant tertiary bouquet.

Woody Wines at the Table: Friends of Generous Dishes

Woody wines, often fuller and more structured, love the company of flavorful dishes: roasted poultry, slow-cooked meats, aged cheeses, even slightly spicy exotic dishes. An oaked Chardonnay with creamy poultry, a Rioja Reserva with lamb with sweet spices, or an Argentine Malbec aged in wood with smoked ribs: pure joy.

To Go Further

At Vinodelice, we like woody wines when they are well made: neither too marked nor too timid. Just enough to add relief without masking the terroir.

🥂 Some suggestions to discover:

Clos Reyssier Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru 2021: a distinguished Chardonnay, with aromas of brioche, hazelnut, and white fruits, subtly aged in oak barrels.

Gómez Cruzado Rioja Reserva 2014: 18 months in oak barrels (half American, half French) and 2 years of bottle aging. A model of complex woody wine at perfect maturity.

Woody wine is not a trend: it's a style in its own right, crossing ages and terroirs. Provided it's handled with finesse, like a good chef with spices.